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Tag: Carcassonne

Herbs de Provence 101

Posted on August 3, 2012August 8, 2017 by Mary

I love Herbs de Provence. I use it regularly and cannot get enough of it. Every time I visit France, I purchase the herbs at the open air Saturday market from local vendors. Packaged so sweetly in a small paper bag and hand labeled, I try to make it last for a year until I can return for more. This year, I purchased Herbs de Provence in Carcassonne and again in Provence in a small ville outside of Avignon.

A fragrant bouquet of herbs.

When I returned home, anxious to cook with the herbs, I noticed a very different aroma from each of these mixtures. Curious, I wondered exactly which herbs are in this aromatic mix. For some reason, I had assumed there was some sort of standard recipe. Well, there is not! I discovered that herbs frequenting the French table are a combination of local tastes, ranging from savory to sweet, using regional flavors. It was not until the 1970’s when spice companies decided to capitalize on the market demand for French herbs and name them “Herbs de Provence.” Rosemary, thyme, marjoram, bay leaf and savory are the basics but many companies also include fennel and more recently lavender, although sparingly. Some substitute the more pungent oregano for the marjoram and areas close to Italy add basil. I prefer the simpler variety with less outspoken flavors and spiked with just a hint of lavender. The fresh flavors of Herbs de Provence lends itself to poultry, vegetables, soups and sauces.

My herb garden is in full bloom with many of the herbs I’m writing about. Instead of using the dried variety, I decided to create version using the fresh herbs growing outside my kitchen door.

Love to inhale these aromas!

I’m not easily impressed with all the fancy olive oils and vinegars out there used in cooking. Sure, I love my Meyer lemon olive oil but have not really found anything that knocked my socks off until I tasted the California Olive and counterpart, San Felipe Olive Company’s infusions. Great News is our San Diego go-to store for all things cooking. I had a 35% off coupon and was itching to use it. As I perused the cutting boards, the knowledgeable sales rep guided me to an olive oil tasting. I met Jeff who introduced me to three of their featured items. As he poured the Peach Balsamic Vinegar into the tasting cup, I was already in love. The thick syrup and fragrance sold me immediately. Did I need bread with this? No! I wanted to drink it. Immediately I was dreaming of recipes with grilled peaches, figs, fruit salad, chicken. Then he poured me the Rosemary Infused Olive Oil. So fragrant and rich. This would be the base for my Herbs de Provence recipes. Ideas flooded my brain and I couldn’t wait to cook. When he mixed the thick White Balsamic with the Rosemary Infused Oil, a salad came to mind of mixed grains, white beans and Niçoise olives. I wanted to cook all weekend! Here is what transpired.

Butterflied and ready for the buttery herb rub.

A butterflied whole chicken, smothered inside and out with buttery Herbs de Provence and garlic mixture came to mind. I would enhance the flavor by drizzling it with a splash of olive oil but not just any olive oil. The rosemary infused oil that came home with me. Here’s how I came to rediscover a classic flavor – rosemary, a key ingredient in Herbs de Provence.

Hot, grilled and ready to eat!

Really such a simple dish, I grilled it for about 15 minutes on each side and paired it with zucchini from my garden and traditional ratatouille ingredients, eggplant, onions, red pepper and tomatoes.

Zucchini stuffing ready to be chopped. The zucchini is from my garden. I added mushrooms for more flavor although they are not traditional in ratatouille.

As you can see, I roughly chopped the veggies, tossed with salt and pepper and a bit of tomato paste. The veggies were then stuffed into the zucchini, wrapped in foil and placed on the grill for 15 minutes.

Ready for the grill. This is so good I’ve made it several times!

When you cook a whole chicken, there are always leftovers. Chicken salad is an easy way to use it up and create flavorful dishes. Immediately, aioli came to mind, a southern French creation of garlicy mayonnaise. I mixed chopped chicken with my own version of aioli by mashing garlic in my mortar and pestle and slowly adding mayonnaise and rosemary olive oil.

Making the aioli.

A dash of salt and pepper and voilà, the taste is gorgeous.

My creation. Gorgeous and delicious and garlicky!

Slices of fennel garnish the salad, add crunch and a bit of a clean taste to contrast the heat  of the garlic. Both dishes are easy to make, very healthy and tasty and make use of all the fresh summer veggies, hopefully from your garden.

A very French dinner including a delightful French rosé wine!

Next I share my passion for late summer and early fall fruit….

Shopping with Gaby

Posted on June 24, 2012May 25, 2024 by Mary

Do you remember days when you set out on a mission to do something but you end up somewhere completely out of your range? Well, that happened to us. My friend, Bonnie, had fallen the previous week, while visiting our beloved Cathars and injured her hand. Our hostess at Moulin de la Roque, Gaby, had sweetly offered her services to translate all injury-related issues at a nearby clinic in Avignon. Country driving suits me just fine but navigating in rush hour traffic through roundabouts with honking horns set my nerves on edge. We finally made it to The clinic in the early evening only to find it was closed. Quel dommage! Ok, so we will table this visit until tomorrow. Since we were so close to a Geant, I asked if we could pop in to see if I could get some help with my Samsung camera that I had purchased in Carcassonne when my Nikon bit the dust. As fate would have it, my Samsung shutter also failed after six days. Gaby asked if she could drive our car (I secretly think my city driving alarmed her!) and she took us straight away to the nearby Geant. Unhelpful, they said that since it was day eight, I could not return my camera. Had it been day seven, I could have exchanged it for a new one. One day shy! Strike two! Hungry to pick up dinner, Gaby asked if we had ever been to a big supermarket and we said “no.” She proceeded to take us to Hyper Marche, a store so large and overwhelming, that it made Super Target look like a puppy whining for its dinner.

On an interesting note: Gaby told us that all the warehouse, mega grocery, and box-type stores are all congregated together, usually outside of town so as not to interfere with the ambiance of village life. You will never find a “strip mall” randomly placed alongside the road for convenience. All you will find are hectares of vineyards, lavender, olives, cows, sheep, and other lovely vistas.

The first thing I loved were the carts on wheels so you could pull your groceries along instead of lugging a handcart. Why don’t we have these here?

Simplistic and easy on the body!

Next, the cheese selection was like being at an outdoor market with a knowledgeable and happy person eager to explain which cheese to buy for which course. Next stop, the fish department. I was expecting a shabby selection of ancient seafood but was blown out of the ocean by the fresh offerings beautifully displayed. My eyes fixated on the Raie. Glowing and almost still quivering, its eyes spoke to me and said, “Try me tonight.” So I did. I have had Raie before but have never attempted to cook it. Gaby suggested lightly sautéing it, then scraping the meat off the cartilage. Let’s see, capers, butter, lemon, finished with Fleur de Sel. My taste buds could not wait.

Fresh Raie is so gorgeous if fish can be that way.

Gaby was anxious to show us her favorite aisle in the store —the yogurt section. Almost twice as long as our average freezer aisle, the yogurt aisle is lined on BOTH sides with every kind of yogurt imaginable. Cow, goat, sheep, unpasteurized, with cream, with fruit, for breakfast, for dessert, in beautiful glazed ceramic jars – anything your heart desires. She tells us the French are crazy about their yogurt and now I can see why. There are as many yogurts as there are wines. We choose a few to try and can’t wait until breakfast.

Let your imagination run wild!

One of our favorites. These containers are ceramic and make beautiful little flower vases.

Yogurt, yogurt everywhere!

Gaby explains the finer art of Fleur de Sel.

On the way out, the wine aisle lures us in. Displayed in only a way the French can, bottles pop out of the shelf with a handwritten tag describing the contents. We learn that in Provence, 60% of the wine that is sold is Rose, that beautiful light pink softness of dry that resembles nothing of our Rose here. In fact, in most restaurants we frequented, the favored wine was Rose. I am now a fan of French Rose.

French wines galore. This is the red selection. Rose was on the other side.

One of the better Roses. A Tavel. Check out the prices! This is about $6.75 and would easily be around $15+ in the US!

Back in our comfy apartment, I took on the Raie, cooking it to perfection, finishing it with a dash of cream and butter, and a smattering of capers and lemon slices. Delish. How I wish this fish would swim our way!

The Raie in its glory.

First, lightly saute.

Lemons make everything tastier.

The plates just made this dish seem even more Provençal!

All fresh. All from the land and sea of Provence. All extremely delicious!

Cathar Country

Posted on June 10, 2012May 25, 2024 by Mary

I first learned of Cathars from my friend Jacques, who wrote to me that his hiking group was planning a tour of these great monuments. Curious, I looked up what a Cathar was and where they were located. As it turns out, they are scattered throughout the Languedoc region very near to Carcassonne.

Majestic cathars dot the landscape.

A web search revealed the history behind the Cathars, the name of the tall hilltop, castle-like structures, and the name of the people who inhabited them. The Cathars were a group of austere believers who formed their interpretation of Christianity around the 9th century. Wikipedia states the word “Cathar” comes from the Greek word katharos, meaning unpolluted or “the pure ones.”

Sky City

Preferring not to acknowledge the Old Testament, they lived very basic lives, were vegetarians, and were pacifists. By the 12th century, the religion had quite a following, mostly in southern France and northern Italy. At this time, the Pope, believing the Cathars were heretics, ordered a crusade against them in an attempt to wipe them out, which eventually occurred, often in tortuous manners. What remains are magnificent outcroppings springing forth far away from villages on lonely country back roads.

Living with the earth.

La Grasse is a small, delightful village we stumbled across along the Cathar trail. Here, we enjoyed a fresh salad of local vegetables and anchovies, which tasted nothing like the canned version in the US.

Every salad is an art form and an expression of the local ingredients.

A very hot day in La Grasse.

Sneaking a swim in the heat.

I hope this parrot made it. He looked a little over-heated!

I loved the color in this tiny ville on our road trip.

The light was high in the sky until 9:30 p.m., when dusk finally sank in, so our Peugeot just kept taking us further and further into the green landscape. Some of the Cathars I photographed are unnamed because they were in the distance and unmarked. If you are fascinated by history like I am, viewing the Cathars is well worth the effort it takes to reach them in the countryside of southern France. You will also be surprised by the quaint villages you happen to chance upon.

Local Eats

Posted on May 31, 2012May 22, 2024 by Mary

There is so much to drink in here in the land of all things that heighten the senses. Look up, and history is staring at you in the face. A distant castle, a gargoyle, an ancient door. Look across the countryside; all is bright green and lush, dotted with poppies. A waft of jasmine fills the air.  Peer inside a window at pastries, cheese, and meats, all so artfully displayed that they lure you inside. This is what I love about France, but this trip has been even more delightful because of the special people we have met. As I write this, am  I munching on a Narbonne, a most delicious pastry filled with perfectly diced apples and seasoned with a hint of anise, topped with a generous sprinkling of pinenuts -wow!

The generous spirit and joy of life are evident in the many friends we have made. First, there is Lionel, the chef of Le Sixieme Sens, who invited me into his kitchen to learn how to make Bourride, a traditional French soup. While visiting St. Martin, an artist invited us into her garden and then gave us a tour of her eclectic house filled with treasures and antiques. The purveyors in the markets and shops have all gone out of their way to describe a certain cheese or give directions. It is this warmth that draws me in and makes me feel welcome and longing for more. Enjoy these photos of the locals, some of my favorite foods, and their shops.

Lionel is the chef and owner of Le Sixieme Sens.

This man gave us so many tastings of his cheese we didn’t need breakfast!

Epicerie Fine La Ferme.  They have the BEST chevre on the planet.

Citron Presse.

Vibrant cherries and glowing apricots.

Macaroon vendor in The Cite. Best macaroons I have ever tasted!

Kicking back on our patio after a day of hiking the castle.

Today, we embark on a private tour of wine country. This region, the Languedoc, Roussillon, is a well-kept secret, and many of its wines have yet to reach the states.

A bientot!

Mary

 

 

Trebes & Le Canal du Midi

Posted on May 29, 2012August 6, 2024 by Mary

Bon Soir Mes Amies,

It is very late and yesterday my camera broke, yes, really broke, so I did my best with the iPhone which really does take very good photos but not so good at close-ups and a bit more difficult in bright lights. This morning I found a Monde (world) camera shop in the bastide and a very nice gentleman fiddled with mon camera for 10 minutes before declaring it broken. The nearest repair? Toulouse or Montpellier. This was just not going to work. Not with four women trying to coordinate our voiture (car) and me having 2 more weeks here sans camera. So I went next door to prendre un café while pondering my dilemma. While paying my bill, I noticed an approachable French man and did not miss the opportunity to ask him in my weak French where I could purchase a new camera. He flashed a smile with twinkling eyes and said “Geant” near the airport. Of course, I knew the road for we had recently become lost and ended up at the airport and I noticed this giant warehouse, Costo/Target-type store across the street. Geant, as I now know it, carries everything from apples to diapers, and bikinis to cameras. There is even a wine bar and beer brassière. Take a hint Target. So, today, my friend Bonnie and I traveled the two miles out of Carcassonne to find Geant and of course missed the exit – but – we did see the sign for Trebes, a small ville on the Canal du Midi we were looking for yesterday and could not find. Deciding this was fate, we took the road to Trebes and were there within ten minutes. Trebes is a lovely ville. Small, quaint, not touristy, and a hub for the folks who rent boats on the Canal du Midi.

 

It was a very warm day. We walked along the Canal, found lots of historic buildings, and visited a sweet church, built in the 1600s. While enjoying a refreshing Citron Presse at a café on the water, I noticed two large otter-like creatures swimming upstream. “Bonnie,” I cried, “Look at the river otters!” Much to my surprise, the server approached me with a giggle and said, “Those are not otters, they are rats.” I had never, ever seen a rat this large – really- about 20 pounds with a very long tail I noticed the next time they swam past us. The things you learn every day!

 

Our day finished off with a late dinner at Le Delices de Tetouan, the Moroccan restaurant I talked about in an earlier blog. The owner was delighted to see us again and brought us jugs of local wine to start our dining experience. Three of us ordered the Tagine and one ordered the Couscous. As our meal was being prepared by Fatima, Nabil’s wife, I asked permission to venture into the kitchen to see how the tagine was made.

 

As I entered her tiny space, I gasped out loud as I viewed her inserting a plate of food into a microwave. She had not one, but two microwaves she was working with for our dinners. Disappointed, I still showed enthusiasm for her cooking, knowing she was doing the best she could to make a living and raise three young children.

Our food was unexpectedly good and pleasingly presented. The vegetable couscous was tasty but not extraordinary.

I loved the colorful tagine “hats” the food is cooked in.

Bonnie’s Tagine was delicious featuring apricots, cinnamon, and honey. My tagine had my favorite flavors of confit of lemon and olives. I do love the Mediterranean food.

 

Yes, I did get a new camera at Geant. The selection was limited but they did have quality cameras to choose from. My new Samsung is small and compact with a touch screen on the viewfinder, like an iPhone. Pretty cool. So no more excuse for the lack of photos. I am now a crazed camera-waving woman shooting here and there and everywhere.

Tomorrow I’ll share market photos. Also, I am invited back to Le Sixieme Sens in the afternoon to view the technique for making Bourride. For now, Merci and Bon Nuit!

Bonjour!

Posted on May 27, 2012May 13, 2024 by Mary
View of the old from the new.

The seemingly endless jet lag and lack of wifi until today have stalled this blog – but not for long! I am still figuring out how to add the correct accent marks to the French words so please forgive their absence for now.

We arrived in Toulouse Friday night, and then traveled to Carcassonne Saturday afternoon. This medieval ville is a fortified French town in the region of Languedoc & Roussillon.  High on a hilltop is perched the older, Cite de Carcassonne, a fairy-tale-like castle, settled as far back as the sixth century BC by Romans and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Below the Cite lies the ville of Carcassonne, a bastide and beautiful walled city in its own right.

Carcassonne’s lively energy is evident in the many colorful cafes and bistros that crowd its place, or plaza. Lured by the smell of intoxicating spices from a tiny Moroccan restaurant that was closed, we curiously peered through the window to see bright orange walls and about four small tables. The owner, Nibil, noticed us and enthusiastically invited us in through the back door. Once inside, he introduced us to his wife, the chef, who creates all the Moroccan dishes with fresh ingredients daily. Excited to share his love of food and people with us and as a sign of friendship, he offered us a small glass of Moroccan white wine. We promised to return for dinner one night this week. Meeting the real people who live here and getting the behind-the-scene tours is what life is all about. I’ll take lots of photos!

These photos are a snapshot of this pretty ville.

The Good Vibe Cafe
Have a seat.
Gorgeous tilework!

The markets are closed today and tomorrow for a holiday so I can’t get my fix until Tuesday. More on food and the fabulous dinner we had last night later…

Au Revoir!

Mary

About Mary Knight

Ciao! I’m Mary, a chef with a heart full of French flair, an explorer of the world, a history buff, and a green-thumbed gardener. My love for food, its origins, all things Europe, and the legendary Julia Child has led me to exciting adventures and delicious discoveries. Travel tugs at my heart, leading me to new places to indulge in local delights, explore ancient sites, and learn of secret spots and recipes from the locals.

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